Volcano Adventures Day 3: Chimborazo, Ecuador's Tallest Peak

YOU WIN SOME, YOU LOSE SOME

CHIMBORAZO, ECUADOR

It was the last day of our 3-day adventure in the Highlands of Ecuador and as it would turn out, it would be personally be the most grueling day of the trip for me. I woke up that morning with a migraine. I refuse to believe it was altitude sickness because we were in higher altitudes throughout the trip and I felt fine. But once we got to the beginning of the trail to eventually ascend up to 16,404' (or 5,000 meters), the highest altitude I've ever been in my life, I hate to admit that not only did I have a throbbing headache, I am officially altitude sick. Great.

The thing about sports though, is that it trains you not just physically, but mentally as well. We've all heard this before, right? But days of physical pain as this, it really puts one's mental tenacity to the test.

To anyone who's never experienced altitude sickness before, it is as brutal as it sounds. A pounding headache is a sign of oxygen shortage. It is already difficult to breathe as it is because of the altitude, but trying doing so uphill nauseous, light-headed with heavy legs that feel as though you're dragging heavy weights from behind you. It was also freezing cold and windy and none of it was going to be easy.

I could have turned around and in all honesty, I should have. Severe altitude sickness is fatal and should never be taken lightly. But I also knew that I had it in me to keep going until at least to the mountain hut.

And I did. And when I got to the sign post announcing I've made it to the refugio, I could have collapsed from both exhaustion and glee that I have made it.

Chimborazo is the tallest peak in Ecuador, about 20,500 feet. They say that relative to the center of the earth, Chimborazo is actually higher than Mount Everest. Due to its elevation, it's very cloudy, windy and cold. It is way above tree line, but it is remarkable to see wildlife up there, such as vicunas which are the wild relatives of llamas and alpacas. They are rare in some parts of the Andes but we were told that their populations are increasing in Ecuador.

We hung out at the mountain hut to warm up, rejuvenate, and have hot beverages. I had coca tea. Being overly optimistic, I thought I could regain enough energy to continue on with the biking adventure that afternoon, but alas, every action has an equal but opposite reaction. We were supposed to mountain bike from the base of Chimborazo all the way down, but for obvious reasons, I had to sit out the last downhill of the trip. I was in the sag vehicle for the rest of the day, and in between bouts of naps, I could see outside the window how wonderfully lush, green and vibrant the scenery would have been had I biked it with the group.

But oh well. You win some, you lose some.

After two hours of car travel from Ambato, we were back in Quito by dinner time. I was so indisposed that I slept that night off, only waking to have a small bite (they delivered to our hotel - yay!). We were supposed to leave for the Amazon the following morning, but sadly had to cancel that part of our trip until I'm healthy enough. I felt 100% the following morning already, but The Dutch somehow caught a nasty cold.

P.S. Shoutout to Best Western Hotel Zen for the absolutely clean and comfortable accommodations conducive for decompressing after the intense three days in the Highlands. It is near the La Floresta neighborhood of Quito with lots of exciting restaurants and cafes.

IF YOU GO

We went on a three-day adventure with Biking Dutchman which consist mostly of mountain biking and some hiking. One day, two day and five day adventures are also available. Note that the biking is pretty intermediate. You will be, after all, barreling downhill from a steep volcano (or volcanoes). Pretty good physical condition and technical ability on a mountain bike is recommended (if not required) for your own safety and those on your trip.

Also worth noting that Biking Dutchman offers accommodations typical of mountain outfitters in other parts of the world. What that means is that in a country like Ecuador, expect humble but mostly comfortable lodging. It's a step up from camping, but don't expect a Western-standard hotel. Please do not expect to be put up in a Hilton or similar. If that is your expectation, this tour is not for you. What it lacks in high end lodging though, it makes up for in warm and cozy nights by the fire, getting to know other travelers, recounting the day's highlights, practicing Spanish (and/or salsa, because energy doesn't ever seem to run out) and sharing locally prepared dinner (and breakfast) as a community of sunburnt, altitude sick and stoked mountain lovers. I hate tours, but I will admit that this part of bonding and building friendships has surprisingly been one of my favorite parts of similar trips.

#ecuador #latam #southamerica #adventure #cycling #hiking