Baby, It's Cold Outside

Baby,It's Cold

Outside

LAKE LOUISE, BANFF NATIONAL PARK

The mention of Lake Louise in wild and remote Banff National Park

conjures up images of an infinitely teal, milky glassy lake with gigantic mountains towering over it on either side. That was the Lake Louise I

was hoping to see, but in the frigid temperatures of winter and the snow

that have pretty much fallen non-stop since we arrived in late November, any

chance of seeing the famed colorful glacial splendor of Lake Louise was lost.

We left our home base in downtown Banff for Lake Louise, less than an

hour away northwest. We haven't yet seen sunshine since we arrived,

but that day, there were little encouraging peeks of blue skies in Banff.

The drive on Canada's highway 1 was nothing short of breathtaking.

Nobody had told me that the Canadian Rockies would be so massive and pristine. I have been privileged to have seen many mountains in

my lifetime, including the French and Swiss Alps, but nothing prepared

me for this. Untouched, uninhabited and kept the same way it has been

for thousands of years (for the most part), it was visually overwhelming

how there was too many of too many things - mountains, rock walls, rivers, streams, trees, and wildlife, I am certain.

Halfway on the drive, it had started to snow lightly. The snowfall got

progressively heavier as we neared Lake Louise. This was Mother Nature

flexing her muscles and asserting who wears the pants around here.

We arrived to a frozen, gray, overcast, mostly monochromatic Lake Louise.

Heavy clouds hung low, obstructing and dashing any hope of seeing

the glaciers framed in the middle of Lake Louise. Snowflakes were

pirouetting from the sky and I try to catch some with my tongue.

It was one of the most beautiful winter scenes I have ever witnessed.

And if some people label us crazy, then so be it, but we decided to hike

the Plain of Six Glaciers trail that snowy afternoon. We were dressed for

the occasion in insulating clothes and weatherproof gear anyway,

so the conditions didn't even cause us to flinch.

There was so much to observe and admire, perhaps especially when

everything is blanketed in snow. I always liked how snow highlights the

contours of everything you see, so if you weren't keen to it before, on a

snowy day, you would actually notice the lines of individual trees and notice (and consequently be floored) at how many there really are!

Unfortunately, due to deteriorating weather conditions, poor visibility, and in consideration of how late it was getting, we turned around after a

modest climb (+656 feet gain). We did not see the glaciers due to the clouds

and fog, but we did stop and stared at the back country skiers shooting

down from the steep face of Fairview mountain across from the trail.

We got back to the trailhead and made a dash for the Fairmont Chateau

Lake Louise for a lunch of chili and pastries. I won't lie - I was anticipating to warm

up by a log fire when we got to the Chateau, but was disappointed that we didn't

find one. But why?!

Having grown up in the Asian tropics, snow has become synonymous to magic.

Winter is a time of stunning beauty for me and it is places like Lake Louise that

underscore why I feel the way I do about winter.

IF YOU GO

STAY

Accommodations in Lake Louise are few and far between. If you so decide on a splurge, the swanky Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise is your best bet, especially since

it is the only accommodation you will find on the lake itself. Banff is a close enough

drive so for more options, I recommend staying there instead. We stayed at newly

renovated boutique hotel Elk + Avenue in downtown Banff and loved it.

PLAY

Apart from hiking/snowshoeing, there is naturally a multitude of outdoor

opportunities around Lake Louise. There's back-country skiing, cross country skiing,

rock/ice climbing, and also downhill skiing.

In the summertime (and I do vow to return in warmer weather), there's a hiking loop

close to ten miles that go around the lake and to two teahouses (this used to be

British territory after all). There's canoeing as well although I heard that the

glacier-fed water of Lake Louise is too cold to swim in.

GEAR

In the winter, I do urge people to gear up smartly when romping around in the snow.

A common misconception about being outside in the snow for extended periods

is that it gets too cold and you will most likely freeze to death by being outside. With

the right layers, one can actually be really comfy and toasty when out in the snow. Read

this post I wrote on this topic a while back here. I also wrote a simple guide to layering for

cold weather here. Wear wool socks with hiking-type shoes with good grip that are

waterproof like these La Sportiva ones or something from Sorel or Canadian brand

Cougar. A hat is also rather necessary and based on experience (whether the science

follows is debatable), I am better able to regulate my body temp if I have something

covering my head. Lately, I've been wearing this uber cute Patagonia beanie,

but I also like the Smartwool pompom beanies like these.

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#adventure #snow #hiking #canada